Warning! These pages are for educational and information purposes only.   If you want to modify your vehicle Or steering; take you vehicle to a qualified shop and let them do the work.  If done improperly you could not only lose your life you many take others with you!  This page is Pro-Life, including saving others and your own life, not to mention the un-born children.
Page updated April 2006

Rebuild of a Ford C4 Automatic Transmission 

Article is in Draft Mode!

Outline:
    Starting Point
    Teardown 1973 Tranny
    Teardown 1974 Tranny
    Parts evaluation
    Build up of a 4x4 C4
    Modifications to the C4
    How do you turn a 2wd C4 into a 4x4
    Painting Aluminum
    Recommendations from the Author
    Links for must read C4 Articles

    Starting Point:

I have two C4 automatic transmissions, the knowledge of a newbie, a Book and the internet.
    1975 Ford Fairlane C4, 2WD, Pan fill, R servo.  Shape is unknown, it was found in a truck of the Cougar.  D5OP- w/a 5 drum hub! We'll find out more soon...
    1972 Ford Early Bronco C4, 4x4, Pan fill, H servo.  Shape is the tranny blew up with a great sound at 55mph.  It's a ArtCarr tranny used as a parts core.  The side has the FoMoCo in block letters with D2AP.  The Best I can tell is it's a 72 Pan Fill, Small Block 351 Windsor C4 out if a Full size Ford; Granada or a Torino?

     Teardown 1973 EB Tranny

  Yep, I was lucky enough that Wally from 4Lo Design sold me a Art Carr 4x4 C4 tranny for the price of a core.  Now, it did blow up with a loud bang at 55mph and locked up the rear-end.  Trouble is, I can't find out what went wrong and or broke.

Yep, I was so excited I tore into the C4 with out taking any pictures.  Don't worry you'll see more of a tear down in the 2wd and build up section.  Most of it was rusted from too much water in it.

  
Extra drum and internal parts are a nice score.  Nothing special I can see in this tranny, Red clutches, then again it did come with a harden input shaft! What is this?  That is not a Early Bronco filter!
Guess Art Carr slipped this cheaper Mustang II filter in place.

I wonder it this lead to part of the destruction of the C4?
This filter is not a direct replacement for the 4x4 version and extension tube, however it is better than a regular filter. Left: Front brake band

Right: Low Reverse brake band.
Left: Front brake band

Right: Low Reverse brake band.

 Left: Front brake band

Right: Low Reverse brake band.
Damaged Vacuum Modulator

Get this, this is a C6 Modulator!  Notice the shoulder, looks like ArtCarr was saving on parts...

 Brake drum clutches (Rear Drum)
Thrust Washers, Not Bushings.

Front view, showing wear.

Thrust Washers, Not Bushings.

Back view, showing wear.
High drum clutches

Reverse & High drum, the front drum with only 4 clutches

 

 High drum clutches  with only 4 clutches
Valve Body Upper H servo

Notice the H on the Piston, not just the cover.

 
Case Wear

Red arrow points to excessive wear.

Now, the 72 is on top of the 75.  What is that threaded hole for?

  Teardown 1974 2WD Tranny

Damaged. thanks to FedEx

And they said too bad, with out insurance they will not do anything.

  
Look the reinforcement rib is also broken.

It has a 5 drum hub!

  
Looking for a new lever..  
       

    Parts evaluation

   
The rear servo (controls manual low and reverse)
Replace this piston every time on a rebuild regardless of it's condition. California Consumer Affairs Bureau State Law requires replacement of this piston in order to classify it as a rebuild" BroncoHowie from classicbroncos.com
Servos.

A picture of the R servo verses the H servo.

C4 Diagram of Parts


Bigger, better pic, click on the below picture
:

 

 

 

 

 

First and foremost, wash and clean all your parts!
Everything must be perfectly clean.  Time to invest in a parts cleaner and lost of brushes.

3 gallon parts cleaner $40

 

Second is a clean work area.  Notice the new towel over the simple work bench.  It's two 2' x 4' sheets made into an "L" shape.  The point is have plenty of clean space to work around.  Also have a well lit area to see all your parts!


       
       
       
       
Ford AOD vs C4 Clutch

AOD fits inside just fine.

 Ford AOD vs C4 Clutch
Ford AOD vs C4 Clutch Ford AOD vs C4 Clutch
       

    My attempted at a 
    Build up of a 4x4 C4

     
       


    Modifications to the C4

Running AN fittings for Cooling lines:  The holes in the trans housing are 1/8" STRAIGHT pipe.   "I used the original tranny fittings and used a Russel fitting #640330 (Summit #RUS-640330) that is -6 to 1/2x20 inverted flare. Screw this into the original fitting. Then used -6 x 1/8" NPT on the radiator. SHould work fine. Will know tommorow when I fire it up for the first time." - rcmbronc classicBronco  Use teflon tape on those radiator 1/8" pipe fittings and you should be good to go Torque specs for the c-4 flywheel bolts are 75-85 ft. lbs
Shift Kit: Transgo C4-70 Towing 'stage two' High Performance reprogramming shift kit.

Gasket Kit: 

There are three different versions you can do to the valve body, do those instead of buying B&M or TransGo kits if your cheap.  But do use valve body gaskets for better sealing.
Cooling:  This is a must if your going to be u24
I suggest a temperature gauge to watch your newly tranny, if your going to race a pressure gage is a good idea. 		 

Clutches, how to install 5 in a drum.

Fwd clutch at 5 clutches with new diaphragm spring the check ball from the stator support for increased cooler flow put a small radius around the openings for feed from the oil pump as they are razor sharp from machining and this seems to help (campher) increase the pressure .. you can increase the relief valve spring tension.  

Controlling endplay seems more important that ring type

I am now using 5 clutches in the hi/rev drum using the lower plate from a forward drum and the smooth red clutches  

If you have an extra 4 clutch drum take the stepped pressure plate from the bottom of the forward clutch hub and use it as the top pressure plate in the direct clutch like Windsor Eight does since the step is only approx .125". It’s thinner so you can get 5 clutches in the standard 4clutch drum. Other times I have used two steels together as a pressure plate to get clearance. It just depends on the frictions, steels and snap rings you have. It works and is easy.
A high mileage drum with a lot of wear in the spline area would cause a problem but not a closely inspected drum with nice tight fitting input shaft. I have seen worn out forward drums that I wouldn't use and I carefully inspect the ones I do use along with "feeling" the spline clearance using the input shaft  

One of the most important things is to allow .005" clearance for each friction clutch for minimum piston movement and quicker engagement. 5 frictions should have .025"  

I am now using 5 clutches in the hi/rev drum using the lower plate from a forward drum and the smooth red clutches  

Controlling endplay seems more important that ring type  

 

#9 Oil improvement
 1. To improve oiling to the #9 thrust washer, drill through the back of the case into the rear oil cooler return line passage to pick up direct lubrication for that thrust washer and drill the washer to match. 

Drill 1/16" oil feed for #9 thrust washer 

 
#9 Oil improvement
3. Machine the case to fit a thrust bearing.  Although this is a common stage 2 mod, I don't recommend it.  It thins the back of the case, and for the above kit will cost about the same as a machine shops time.  Now if you disagree with me, your most likely chasing ET's. 		 

Drill this passage to 3/16" to open it up slightly from 5/32". The hole in the case for the cooler fitting is quite a restriction so opening it up should improve flow slightly.

 
#9 Oil improvement
2. You can also add a different sized thrust bearing in the very important #9 position with a kit Jay from Broader Performance developed and they are at http://www.broaderperformance.com/page8.html  $55   		 

Other Mods and Junk - Don't mind my notes, had to keep them somewhere.


Welded/solid forward drum ????
Direct setup to at least 5 clutches prob 6 would be better
using good quality forward discs in the direct.

Stator support bushing Since the early 80's, I have always used the C6 pump bushing in the C4/C5 pumps with no problems

Drill the direct drum circumference 4 X 5/16" holes.         ?? What is this ??
Kevlar lined front flexband
'R' or 'H' factory servo fitted with studs to case
New kevlar reverse band + servo piston.
Drill reverse drum(20 holes X 3/8"=approx 100 grams)                ?? What is this ??
Drill input shell to release trapped oil                             ?? What is this ??
Drill 1/16" oil feed for #9 thrust washer                         ?? What is this ??
Fit new sprag/roller kit                                               ?? What is this ??
Use a C5 sungear/input shell-larger oil lube feed to planets
Fit 4 T-350 roller thrusts                                  ?????
Fit C6 roller thrust behind park gear                    ?? What is this ??
Modify front pump cooler circuit for full flow         ?? What is this ??
Use C6 bush in front pump                                ?? What is this ??
Drill slightly and chamfer oil cooler return hole at case               ?? What is this ??
Deep pan w/drain plug approx 3.5" deep (adds 2 litres)

I drill several 1/8" drain holes in the direct drum                       ?? Where is this ??  

with the pump out and apart you want to check for any signs of wear(C-4 pumps are usually coated with a black oxide finish so any wear will look like shiny metal), check the pump gears for wear on the teeth, check the flats on the inner gear and make sure they aren't worn(this is where the conv. hub drives the gears),put the gears in the pump and with a small straight edge lay it across the top of the gears, resting on the pump, and slide feeler gauges underneath to check the clearance, should be no more than .003 max.. A quick test for the gear teeth is to take both gears on a flat surface,lay them down so the inner gear meshes with the outer, put your fingers in the middle of the inner gear and pull the gear set towards the side that's not meshed, the gears shouldn't pull apart(basicaly dragging the gear set across the table, they shouldn't come apart). Also check the stator support surface for wear(if it has any it should be obvious). You are also going to have to replace the pump bushing and seal, so make sure you get a bushing kit along with the rebuild kit. Hope this helps you.
Oh, almost forgot, the pump gears have to go in a certain way, so check in your rebuilder manua
=Well, it sounds like the wear on the teeth isn't that bad, since they didn't pull apart. If the wear on the flats inside the inner gear look bad, replace the gear set. The pump will always show some kind of wear, just make sure it's not grooved up, shiny is OK. But definitly check the clearance, remember .003 is max., if it's anymore you can get a new gear set, but then check the clearance with them because if it's still over .003 you will need to get another pump or another pump cover( because of wear).

=Ahh, the black sludge, you find it in every trans it's just that C-4 have those big servo cavities to collect it in. Rebuild kits aren't that exspensive for a C-4, kit with steels $50-$60. You can get just a basic kit, but make sure they have name brand clutches like Raybestos, Borg Warner, or factory Ford. Make sure you get the kit with steels, alot easier than sanding you old ones. I use a company called Transtar (1-800-321-8830)Ext #480. You need the rebuild kit with steels( Raybestos)
Filter
Band adjusting nuts(they have rubber seals on the ends)
Intermediate band(2nd gear)
Front pump bushing, Tailshaft Bushing , or you can get a whole bushing kit(like $25)
Selective washer kit to adjust end play
Vaccum modulator (if yours is bad)
Pump gears ( if you need them)
They also have selective snap rings to set the clutch clearances, both drums use the same ring(like 4 different thickness, have to check to see what you need).
Shift kit ( they carry 2 Transgo kits 1)firm shift kit 2) kit makes it a manual valve body)
Billet servo is nice, sometimes the shift kit will cause the stock servo cover to leak because of the pressure it applies, the billet one stops this, and make the 1-2 shift a tire barking event
I don't think you need the hardened input right now or a 6 pinoin planetary. You already have the cooler, and the low & reverse band usually doesn't wear so if it looks good reuse it.
=Mallon from Corral.net

use AOD clutchs in the forward drum – More clutch area to steel. The AODs have a bigger OD  

The book will talk about "air checking" the drums after you replace the seals, the frictions (clutches), and the steels (steel clutches). This is vital. It will tell you if you have a good seal that will hold the hydraulic pressure to activate your clutch pack.

Air check with only about 25-40 psi of air and watch the clutches engage. A good air check will sound like a soft "thump" and will show the clutches moving upward as the piston compresses everything together. You will hear some air hissing out but that's ok because as long as the clutch pack stays compressed while air is applied then it's good to go. The drum is designed to be fluid tight, not air tight. The reason for not using 90+ psi is that too much air pressure will hide a bad seal and cause the clutch pack to engage regardless of how good good the seal is. If it will hold pressure at 25-40 psi of air pressure, then it's going to hold the 180+ psi of fluid pressure that the valve body is going to throw at it.

Air check by placing the drums on the pump individually and using a blow gun w/ a rubber tip to blow air into the fluid passage.

Another way to air check is place the assembled unit with the bellhousing facing up and apply air into the passages where the valve body would send fluid into the case.

Cheap way to position a c-4 for easy assembly & air check!

Take 5 gallon sturdy plastic bucket.
Flip it upside down and drill a 1" hole with a hole saw in the middle.
Take off the tailshaft housing and place the c-4 output shaft first into the upside down bucket.
This allows you to disassemble & assemble by taking components straight up and out.
When the c-4 is assemble it's heavy, make sure the whole thing doesn't go tipping over on you. =65mustang393 

A thrust washer kit is ~20, since they are intended to wear its a good idea to replace them to keep it tight

You don't really need a C5 pump .You can modify your C4 pump to the same specs by removing the checkballs in the cooler circuit which does 2 things,increases flow to the cooler + flow to the return line which is the lube circuit.Also drilling the rear return passage in the case slightly and chamfer the hole helps.
The best mod is to use the sun gear from a C5 which has larger holes to lube the gears to both planet sets.

Best piece of advise is do NOT buy a used converter

 

    Painting Aluminum
Either your going to take the time to paint it, or not, here are my notes:  
Aluminum needs to be as clean as you can get the metal and etched it for best adhesion.  If your looking for a toxic solution fluoride is the key, it etches the aluminum surface to provide for good paint adhesion.  
Steps how I prep and paint Aluminum.
  1. Mechanically remove dirt and oxidation (Use a power device with a  "Surface Conditioning" pad and then for hard to reach spots a 3M Maroon Scotchbrite pad or steel wool.)
           A. If your taking off paint use an "Aircraft Stripper" to get down to the aluminum, and it slightly etch's.
  2. Fresh Water Rinse (Hot Water if available)
  3. Alkaline degrease and/or metal wash. (Dawn brand dishwashing detergent is the minimum, I like to use a Scotchbrite pad for applying the soap.  For a better solution look for a  mild etch and follow All safety instructions!  I used Napa Aluminum Brightener 765-1458. $8 )
  4. Rinse thoroughly.  (Hot Water if available, Deionized water if you're really anal)
  5. Self-Etch primer applied to totally dry surface as soon as possible after the rinse. (Looking for a self-etching single part non-chromate primers, NAPA carries Martin Senour 7220 or Dupli-Color Self-Etching Primer $8)
  6. Top Coat with your paint.

Remember that aluminum does not accept a conversion coatings.

    How do you turn a 2wd C4 into a 4x4 C4?
You will need the following parts to turn a 2wd C4 into a 4wd C4.

1. 4x4 Rear Tail Shaft
Find these on E-bay for a Bronco House.
2. Pan

Ford C4 4x4 pan.  Notice the large pump for the extension tube.  I'm not 100% but, the C5 pan is deep and may be able a suitable swap.

3. 1973-77 4x4 Filter (New a parts store)  
4. T-tube for filter
Find these on E-bay or a Bronco House, this tube will not fit with out the pan, #2. 		 
5. Adapter 

Picture shows a Ford Early Bronco Dana 20 transfer case with the C4 adapter.  
This is the only transfer case that came mated to the Ford C4.  
The adapter is unique to the C4 and Dana 20. 
The red arrow shows the Dana 20 gear, the same for J-shifts and T-types transfer cases.

Find these on E-bay for a Bronco house.
Other C4 stuff related to 4x4's
The Ford "Short Tailshaft" C4.

I'm still looking for more information on this.
So far it looks like early 70's Trucks and Vans.
This could be use with a divorced T-case.
C4 2wd vs 4x4 shaft.  Note 4x4 adapter fits 5.75" into end of 2wd shaft.
4x4 shaft on top.

C4-203-D20 Idea.  I've a couple C4 2wd shafts, maybe someday I'll respline the shaft to mate to a Dodge 203 (23 Spline input) or Chevy (27 Spline).  Unless I remove the governor, and then maybe respline the thick part for a 31 Spline Ford 203?  Well it's an idea...  28 Splines major diameter 1.18", minor diameter 1.05"

 
Never Mind this section, just 203 case info.

Looks like the Chevy 203 unit behind a T350 is the one I'm looking for.  I'll re-Spline a 2WD shaft at the 1 1/4" thick part to 27 Spinles.  Now to find out how far behind the governor this sits to start measuring....

Chevy 203
Input Spline: GM used three different input spline configurations on these cases.
 10 spline: (1971-79) Used behind SM465 transmissions
 27 spline: (1971-79) The units supplied with a T350 automatic have a 27 spline female input shaft. 
 32 spline: (1973-77) This is the preferred shaft, as it is the strongest. These came behind Turbo 400 trannies.

203 It was used in 1971-'80 GM K-series trucks, Blazers and Suburbans

Ford NP203 Transfer Case  1974-'76 Ford F-150 and Broncos,
The Ford NP203 has a 31 spline female input. The bolt pattern is the Ford rotation of the 6 bolt circular bolt pattern. 

Dodge NP203 Transfer Case  1971-'80 Dodge Ram and Ramcharger trucks
The Dodge 203 has a 23 spline female input. Later model Dodge transfer cases use the 6 bolt circular bolt pattern. Early Dodge 203s use the same front bolt pattern as the early Chevy unit. It is an asymmetrical pattern unique to the 203. It is possible to disassemble this case and re-drill it for the 6 bolt circular pattern.

If you can get a 205 or Ford 203 cheap, GET IT!

Spline research: 

32 Spline OD is 1.40"      23 Spline OD is 1.22"         1 5/6" = 1.313"   1 1/4" = 1.250"
Dodge 27-spline female input gear.    Ford 28 Spline      29 Spline root = 1.385"

Dana 60: 30 Spline O.D. 1.285     Dana 70: 35 Spline O.D. 1.5
The standard Dana 30-spline is 1.31 inches in diameter (Root or ?)

30 Spline - 6,200 ft.
31 spline - 7,000 ft.

info@moserengineering.com <info@moserengineering.com>


    Recommendations from the author:

  • Do not attempt unless you are mechanically inclined and have confidence in your abilities, or have an ace-in-the-hole to help you.

  • Do your research!  Follow my Links and keep searching for more information (Don't just trust my buildup, this is my first time!)

  • Buy a quality C4 rebuild book, several listed below.

  • Wash, and wash again the parts until they are 100% clean.  Buy a 3 gallon parts washer for $40, it will be worth every penny.

  • Find a spare C4 tranny for extra parts, or even a C5, in a junk yard and get some extra parts.

  • TV CABLE...Adjust this and triple check it. If you want your transmission to last, you need perfect TV Cable operation.

  • Do NOT buy a used converter, rebuilts one run $50-100

    •

    Video's & Books:  A Video does replace a quality step by step manual. 

    Links for Must Read tech articles on the Ford C4 

    Links for more tech articles:

    http://www.c6-c4.com/ 
http://www.fordmuscle.com/phpBB/viewforum.php?forum=13&2650 
http://mmerlinn.tripod.com/trans/notes/fbbnotfd.htm#default   
http://www.transgo.com/ 
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1563921707/ref=sib_rdr_dp/102-1922177-0017756 
http://www.broncoparts.com/  
http://home.off-road.com/~ebbarn/c4.html 
http://mmerlinn.tripod.com/trans/fdc4f/fd9c4bhd.htm 
http://www.classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=54424 
http://www.broaderperformance.com/page2.html 
http://www.vintagebronco.com/bwickert/C4Rebuild/Early%20Bronco%20C4%20Rebuild.html 
http://www.broncohq.com/rmtt-c4automatictrans.html 
http://www.broncograveyard.com/ 
http://www.homestead.com/therangerstation/AutoTrans.html 
http://www.network54.com/Forum/thread?forumid=260730&messageid=1085017121 
http://www.fordmuscle.com/phpBB/viewforum.php?forum=13&2556 
http://www.getyourbizonline.com/fbperformance/Detail-LookSmart-240.htm 
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9729/home[1].html 
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9729/links2.html 
http://www.geocities.com/parthos.geo/trans/tranny.html  
http://www.madhatterracing.com/oscommerce/index.php?cPath=26_32&osCsid=5e1c4b8165906a5795445f010ccbc6e3 
http://www.tpiperformance.com/ind.html 
http://www.transgo.com/fordauto.html 
http://www.shoppinganimal.com/auto-products/46024.html 
http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/ 
http://eshop.advanceadapters.com/commerce/catalog/product.jsp?product_id=1453&czuid=1099850703437 
http://www.fordmuscle.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?topic=34447&forum=13&2  
http://www.burly4x4.com/c4/c4buildup/ 
http://www.tciauto.com/ford/ford_c4_c6.htm#transmissions 
Ford Transmission Forum : http://www.network54.com/Forum/260730

    Parts:

     

    • Bulk Parts & E-bay -Parts Kit 
    • $75 e-build Kit -Borg-Warner clutches and "Steel plates," pump & extension housing bushing, Transtec soft parts kit, new 2wd filter, the band (upgradeable to Kevlar for $13).
      http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBaycategory 
    • $6 Filter #: A26010D Filter C4/C5 Bronco 73-77            
    • $7 #: A26912 Servo piston, C4 reverse (This is needed for a true rebuild)
    • $18 #: 26200C Thrust Washer kit C4 / C5 70-86 w/ popular selectives 
    • $2 #: 26034, #: 26064 Pump and Case bushings
    • $108 Total
    • Bulk Parts -Parts Kit 
    • $36 # 25005B Includes: gaskets, seals, sealing rings, steel clutches and BorgWarner friction* clutches as available.
      http://www.bulkpart.com/Merchant2/_Code=C4 
    • $8 #: B26022 Band C4 / C5 front flex 65-up
    • $6 Filter #: A26010D Filter C4/C5 Bronco 73-77
    • $7 #: A26912 Servo piston, C4 reverse (This is needed for a true rebuild)
    • $18 #: 26200C Thrust Washer kit C4 / C5 70-86 w/ popular selectives            
    • Maybe $20 #: 26030B Bushing kit, C4 / C5 1970-86 only    (Recommend Pump and Case bushing are $2 for both, #: 26034, #: 26064)
    • $77 Total
    $50 #: T26169A TransGo Reprogramming Kit C-4 70-Up Performance / heavy duty kit 40-2

    $3.50 #: A26010C Filter C4 74-81 Mustang II deep filter

    • Bulk Parts -Parts Kit 
    • $36 # 25005B Includes: gaskets, seals, sealing rings, steel clutches and BorgWarner friction* clutches 
      http://www.bulkpart.com/Merchant2/_Code=C4 
    • $6 Filter #: A26010D Filter C4/C5 Bronco 73-77
    • $7 #: A26912 Servo piston
    • $2 25808 Sprag, C4 spring & roller kit      
    • Case bushing $1 for  #: 26064
    • C6 pump bushing
    • $ Total
    • >valve body gasket? temperature gauge? Vaccum modulator

     
    • Bulk Parts -Another Parts Kit
    • $68 -Gaskets, seals and sealing ring kit. Red Eagle friction clutch kit Steel clutch kit (non coated)
      http://www.bulkpart.com/Code=C4rrk 
    • $8 #: B26022 Band C4 / C5 front flex 65-up
    • $6 Filter #: A26010D Filter C4/C5 Bronco 73-77            $3.50 #: A26010C Filter C4 74-81 Mustang II deep filter
    • $7 #: A26912 Servo piston, C4 reverse (This is needed for a true rebuild)
    • $18 #: 26200C Thrust Washer kit C4 / C5 70-86 w/ popular selectives            
    • Maybe $20 #: 26030B Bushing kit, C4 / C5 1970-86 only    (Recommend Pump and Case bushing are $2 for both, #: 26034, #: 26064)
    • $109 Total

        Pictures of build ups:

    Early Bronco C4: http://www.vintagebronco.com/bwickert/C4Rebuild/Early%20Bronco%20C4%20Rebuild.html 

     

      Warning! These pages are for information only.   If you want to modify your vehicle Or steering; take you vehicle to a qualified shop and let them do the work.  If done improperly you could not only lose your life you many take others with you!  This page is Pro-Life, including saving others and your own life, not to mention the un-born children.


    Check out a great historic B&B in Key West. This is the only spot I vacation at in the Keys!

    Located in Key West, Florida
     www.curryhousekeywest.com

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    Now its your time, Join your local 4x4 club or Association to help Fight for your rights as a off road enthusiast.  Or you'll loose your right and trail riding will Die.  It's that easy, click to learn.

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    I ask you click on the picture above and take 1 hour out of your life to read up on factual accounts of abortion.
    Thank you.

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    If you do nothing else, preserve life.  This is a Pro-Life web page.
    Funny how pro choice is really only one choice.  That "choice" is murder

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     Find me at www.Pirate4x4.com Ford forum ... or ...  http://www.jeepaholics.com , user name on All forums is Mr.N  

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    Mr.N's Dana Article Main Page

      Warning! These pages are for information only.   If you want to modify your vehicle Or steering; take you vehicle to a qualified shop and let them do the work.  If done improperly you could not only lose your life you many take others with you!  This page is Pro-Life, including saving others and your own life, not to mention the un-born children.

    Copyright © 2002 All International Rights Reserved.  This document may not be copied or published in anyway without prior written permission.